Speaking in silence

“All the world is a stage, and all the men and women merely players; they have their exits and their entrances.” And it is not that far between sweet desserts and a cold stone.

Kauffmann Memorial in Rock Creek Cemetery, also known as Seven Ages.

Gift from the Gilded Age

The Adams Memorial in Rock Creek Cemetery (the bronze figure was sculpted by Augustus Saint-Gaudens and the site designed by architect Stanford White). It was commissioned by Henry Adams as a memorial to his wife, “Clover” Adams. Mark Twain paid a special visit to it before returning to New York on a trip to Washington in winter 1906.

In December 1906 Mark Twain came to Washington to lobby for a new copyright bill. He appeared at the hearing of the Library of Congress with a white flannel suit that with his silvery hair made a stir. And he surely enjoyed his dramatic gesture of flinging off a long loose coat to make a debut of his trademark white suit. But many years ago in the winter 1867-1868 when Twain was a capital correspondent writing for various papers, he already made quite a few stirs in Washington and left an impression of a flamboyant young man on many. As the doorkeeper of the Senate, Twain insisted charging senators fifty cents admission and attempted to address the Senate floor and had to be stopped by the sergeant at arms. During his sojourn in DC Twain moved between boardinghouses. “Shabby furniture & shabby food – that is Washington” were his own words. On one occasion Twain devised an impromptu plot using a dog on the street to get a few dollars out of its owner to fill up the shortage he and his fellow journalists needed to buy alcohol. Writing was one means of making money for Twain; he had not enough confidence in himself as writer even after Huckleberry Finn was published. He had to forge his own way to make that Mark Twain he aspired to be.

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Henry Adams was a contemporary of Twain. He was well known for his nine-volume History of the United States. The Education of Henry Adams, his memoir, won the Pulitzer Prize  and was placed by the Modern Library as the number one English-language nonfiction book of the 20th century. Adams never wrote to make money, and writing was an intellectual pursuit for him. In a collection of published letters of Clover, mostly to her father, Mrs. Henry Adams, who was from a prominent Bostonian family, very witty, and an accomplished amateur photographer, revealed in detail their charming life that was full of travels, receptions, excursions, elegant luncheons and dinners. Their home on Lafayette Square in Washington, “which has five rooms in the yard and will hold coachman and any servants we may wish” and “on second floor six bedrooms, two bathrooms, and new servants’ staircase – verandas between all three stories,” was the gathering place of America’s foremost intellectuals. Indeed, it seems proper to call them “rare birds in America’s Gilded Age.”

Both men of letters in the Gilded Age fell into a total despair in the end from disillusions of the age. Contrast between tremendous wealth for some and extreme poverty for many, social upheavals, influx of immigrants, and bad politics were ballooning as America gained rapid industrialization and materialistic advances prompted by a growing railroad industry. The problems were so severe that Adams questioned whether the ideal of democracy had failed. The Adams Memorial is history’s gift to us through a reflective historian. (Now, more than ever in history, does the nation need reflection.) However, it is Mark Twain, who grew up and worked as a riverboat pilot on the Mississippi River, not Henry Adams, a descendant from two U.S. Presidents and a Harvard graduate, that embodies the American spirit.

The Gilded Age refers to an era in U.S. history from the 1870s to about 1900, following the American Civil War. The term was derived from the novel The Gilded Age: A Tale of Today by Mark Twain and Charles Dudley Warner published in 1873. It only came into use later in the 1920s and 1930s.

Stanford White and Augustus Saint-Gaudens were also quintessential men in the Gilded Age who collaborated to create many of the Beaux-Arts works that “gilded” New York and other American cities. White’s Washington Square Arch still stands today as NYC’s most celebrated monument.

Coffee, burger, and pastries…

Yes. These stores are open! And life must go on.

Dancing water from Philz Coffee (Dupont Circle), proper burger from Duke’s (Foggy Bottom), and French pastries at Boulangerie Christophe (Georgetown).
Seafood at Captain White (The Wharf). It needs patience to wait in line, though.
Groceries at Stachowski’s (Georgetown). Its lunch sandwiches are so good.

What’s up

While fancy restaurants’ tables and chairs await in despair, cranes are up in many parts of the town. Destruction, construction, and reinvention are always happening at the same time.

A sunny Sunday

On Mother’s Day the sun shines brightly, perhaps the best gift for mothers this year; people are out to enjoy sunshine everywhere. But mothers are the sun themselves whose smile shines over us, pouring a warm human space into a chaotic jungle still roamed by ancient fathers.

Arts & eats in the time of Coronavirus

While the French painter is ignored at the National Gallery of Art, the Asian beauty at the Smithsonian’s Freer Gallery is without admirers. Eros, quarantined in the Hirshhorn Museum’s sculpture garden, looks small; a modern Poseidon with no flesh but metal bones is up, standing tall in a street garden.
The celebrity chef José Andrés’s three restaurants in Penn Quarter and Chinatown are dressed up with new art decor. His Spanish Jaleo and Eastern Mediterranean inspired Zaytinya are now community kitchens serving meals outside of doors at reduced prices or free for those who can’t pay. Social distancing is maintained by well-spaced paint marks on the ground leading all the way to the door. China Chilcano – fusion of Peruvian and Asian – offers takeout and delivery; it has the most memorable spicy dumplings – really and distinctly spicy.