A bridge that bridges…

The new Frederick Douglass Memorial Bridge under construction. The bridge will transform an urban freeway into a scenic boulevard. It is designed to connect the southeastern quadrant to the city’s central district, and more importantly opportunities.

The SE quadrant is separated from the other three quadrants with double barriers, first a river and then freeways (DC-295 and Interstate-295); one could easily forget it is DC too. On my first drive in some of the neighborhoods there, I came to recognize instantly the differences between the two sides and the significance of these physical barriers. Indeed, all the freeways in the city, legacies of the past, have proved to be a bad idea. If you’d walked in town, you would understand the frustration of crossing them and those bridges around them. They block the flow of everything and cause segregated development patterns.

The darkness and all that behind it

Rural and small towns across America have experienced a significant decline since the 1960s. Sociologists and journalists have offered rich accounts of some of the towns; what emerged from these accounts is a general picture of decline associated with external societal changes and global forces: first a postwar shift of the national development to urban economies and then technological change in the 1980s and globalization.

The direct economic consequence of this decline is a considerable segment of people living in poverty. The decline has important social, cultural, and political consequences too. Drug abuse is epidemic as “a sociocultural cancer.” A peculiar gun culture is widespread. The persistent dire socioeconomic situation in American small towns has recently contributed to and influenced national political dynamics, such as the rise of populism, and the 2016 presidential election with an outcome that surprised many Americans (the metropolitans).

A lesson learned: rural and small towns must be integrated into urban development so they can grow along the side of cities, and there is a role for guidance in development. Lacking large urban centers, the rural and small-town America is left in a darkness, literally, and from technological advances and social progress consequently, leading to a prominent spatial, social, and economic imbalance on the national level, which is now playing a critical role in shaping the nation’s political future.

It becomes a difficult problem once the pattern has formed. People have been trying hard to revive their communities with a lot of effort made in tourism and crafts (another example is PA Route 6 Alliance). These efforts lead to varying degrees of success. Large cities won’t come into being overnight and naturally, but all places should at least be covered by cellular phone systems and have access to the internet. So many times my cell phone failed to give me driving directions because there was simply no signal.

City Lights of the United States 2012, NASA Earth Observatory image by Robert Simmon, using Suomi NPP VIIRS data.
2016 US presidential election results by county showing a divide between metropolitans and rural and small towns. Source: Wikipedia.

Retracing Washington’s footsteps on the other side of the Potomac River

History is everywhere along the Washington Heritage Trail in West Virginia. The trail is designated with a goal at least partly to revive the historic towns, sort of like the GAP. In a way these towns are competing for tourists, but some do better than others. And then economies and politics are inseparable.

The Washington Heritage Trail in West Virginia.
Feeling haunted by the old colonial buildings in Martinsburg, West Virginia. And the few people I ran into on the streets look just like these buildings. It is depressing and at the same time puzzling given that as a strategic gateway to the Shenandoah Valley, the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad arrived here as early as 1842, and today it serves the seat of Berkeley County and well connected by Interstate 81 that goes through the Appalachian Valley.

On a side note, Martinsburg was established by general Adam Stephen, who was a longtime associate and sometime rival of George Washington, and was named for Stephen’s friend, Lord Fairfax’s nephew Thomas Bryan Martin.
Glad to see some promising signs in Charles Town, the seat of Jefferson County, West Virginia. A decent looking and well operated grocery store where residents can place orders in one window or online and pick up at the door. A Saturday farmer market where religious and political campaigning is not allowed. There are young people around and you can find some well maintained stately houses. A person at the farmer market told me that some town people commute to the DC area for work, and some are doing poorly; but at least they are trying to maintain a political conversation here.
Happy Retreat, the historic home of George Washington’s brother Charles Washington, in Charles Town.

Featured by a Washington Post article as a weekend getaway in Morgan County, West Virginia, people in Berkeley Springs still call their town Town of Bath. Despite its endowments in natural springs and the local artist’s humor, the town needs a more substantial economy in addition to a few shops and restaurants, an art gallery, and a nice country inn.
The historic site of George Washington’s brother Samuel Washington in Berkeley Spring. Today it is the law offices of Trump & Trump.
The Ice House Artist’s Co-op, a gallery showcasing the work of local and regional artists in Berkeley Springs.
Support for Trump is visibly loud in these West Virginia towns, though you may also spot yard campaign signs for Biden. It is only when you get to Winchester, the county seat of Frederick County in Virginia, about 25 miles south to Martinsburg along Interstate 81 and 40 miles from Berkeley Springs along Route 522, that you see support for Biden gain voices, but Winchester is a lively town with live music (see below).

I think it is people like those in these WV towns who will determine the election results – they had switched positions in the past. These are not people who are delighted in or can afford the delight of the art of debate – they have been left far behind economically and felt hurt so badly that they completely lost trust of the governments. They want change and had voted for candidates who promised change from one party and then the other. They will vote for whoever makes them feel heard.
US presidential election results by county in West Virginia. Source: Wikipedia.

Winchester, Virginia

The town also tries to capitalize its rich history, but it got real stuff: a vital Old Town that is full of life and a wonderful farm market at the city’s edge on Route 522. The pumpkin and apple cider donuts sold in the farm market are simple but delicious, and it feels so nice to hear live music in Old Town, almost heavenly, after spending a day driving though those WV towns in its Eastern Panhandle.
George Washington’s Office Museum in Winchester.

Under the influence of the Mid-Autumn moon

The mind travels beyond boundaries in space and time. It sees how a profound system came to an end after it reached its culmination through a synthesis that encompassed all ideas. There left no way (possibility) forward but to return to its original source, and of course, that didn’t help – what had served the past could not serve the present or the future. Every system must remain open to “foreign” ideas so to constantly enrich thought and find new directions forward. Never go backward.

Scouting the GAP

The 150-mile Great Allegheny Passage (completed in 2013) starts from Pittsburgh in Pennsylvania and follows old railroads (like the W&OD Trail). It connects to the 184.5-mile C&O Canal trail at Cumberland in Maryland and brings about 1 million visitors (bikers) per year. Map from gaptrail.org.
Ohiopyle, a hot tourist spot in Fayette County, thanks to the Youghiogheny River and the Laurel Highlands that offers a 70-mile hiking trail through the mountains.
Trail access station and trailhead at Rockwood, a quiet small town in Somerset County.
Fields are still farmed (they are really beautiful farms), and trains still pass by, but Meyersdale (in Somerset County) is no longer the prosperous town it used to be when the first railroad reached the town in 1871 connecting the upper Ohio river basins to east coast cities. Actually, none of the GAP towns I visited are (their growth was all brought about with the advent of the railroad in the past; the GAP was built partly to re-connect these towns to the larger world and facilitate their revival). Common in the GAP towns today are yard campaign signs for Trump.

US presidential election results in Fayette County and Somerset County (1968 – 2016). Data on percent of votes for Democratic and Republic candidates from Wikipedia.

Fayette County was Democratic-leaning in the past but has been trending towards the Republicans since 1996. “The county used to be a center of coal mining and coke production in the mid-19th century. From the 1880s to the early 1900s, the area experienced great expansion in steel production, and by World War II, Fayette County had a new unionized working class that enjoyed increased prosperity. In the 1950s, however, the coal industry fell into decline. In the 1970s, the restructuring and collapse of American steel resulted in a massive loss of industrial jobs and hard times in the area. The loss of union jobs caused many working families to drop out of the middle class. Only a few mines are being worked in the 21st century, but natural resources remain crucial to the local economy. The region is slowly transitioning toward the service sector, with an increase in jobs in fields such as telemarketing. A study released in 2009 by PathWays PA, in partnership with the Pennsylvania Department of Labor and Industry, found that 35% of families in Fayette County were economically distressed, that is, failing to earn a wage that would adequately provide food, shelter, child care, health care, and other basic necessities. The racial makeup of the county was 93.30% White, 4.71% Black or African American, 0.11% Native American, 0.22% Asian, 0.01% Pacific Islander, 0.11% from other races, and 2.33% from two or more races. 1.38% of the population were Hispanic or Latino of any race.”

Somerset County has been consistently Republic-leaning and socially conservative with a dominant white population. “Its rich history includes agriculture and mining. The racial makeup of the county was 97.39% White, 1.59% Black or African American, 0.08% Native American, 0.21% Asian, 0.01% Pacific Islander, 0.31% from other races, and 0.40% from two or more races. 0.66% of the population were Hispanic or Latino of any race. “

US presidential election results in Pennsylvania (1968 – 2016). It shows a convergence toward red color over time in Western Pennsylvania with the exception of Allegheny County where Pittsburgh – the second largest city in Pennsylvania only behind Philadelphia – is located. Also note that before 2000 results were sensitive to individual candidates across all the counties not just along the party line. Maps from Wikipedia.

Following the Potomac to Point Lookout

I find the river lost itself completely to Chesapeake Bay at the end (even back at Coltons Point). While the Potomac looks spectacular at the Great Falls (because of the cliffs), I think the river is at its best at Piscataway – natural, exciting, and self-contained. What impress me most are those thin trees standing sparsely in a small wetland on the roadside and fields of tall grasses. In this part of Southern Maryland we can still spot campaign signs for Bernie in the yards.

Piscataway (George Washington’s Mt Vernon is visible across the river from here).
Coltons Point.
Point Lookout.

Tracing the Potomac (and C&O canal) upstream

The rural landscape in Western Maryland is beautiful. The river looks tranquil here, but only on the surface. In fact, the region is so politically different from the more populous eastern part of the state that some residents started a “Western Maryland Initiative” to form a new state. One of the proposed state names is “Appalachia.” So, we see the country’s two worlds even in a small state like Maryland.

Williamsport
Big Pool
Hancock
Little Orleans
Paw Paw Tunnel
2016 presidential election results by county in Maryland (source: The New York Times). Notice how color changes as you move away from DC.